Front Wheel Bearing II.. a different approach..

As it stand's.. Aveo parts are now populating auto parts yards..  This includes a part that provides a work around to pulling the bearing's and replacing them. (meaning having to buy a the special bearing removal tool or find a shop press with the right set-up)

  I lucky for everyone, I need to replace my  left side bearing once again.  I bought a cheapo $19.99 "duralast" bearing 19k miles ago. It's groaning loudly above 30 mph ,making the car seem unsafe to drive.

I was able to find a local yard that listed a few Left side spindles. I selected one from an '07 that was said to have less than 60 miles on it.  Whether thats true or not who knows, but the hub moved smoothly and a little tight.  Whereas the hub on my car - once removed- spun freely and very loose and noisy.

So.. Here's a set of pictures and some details of my spindle swap-out.  

Took about 4 and 1/2 hour's. (this included stopping to take pictures).
Total Costs incl 8% NY tax.:

Spindle 48.50
Ball joint tool 26.50

1st I pulled the car into the 'shop' and got a floor jack in position.

Before any jacking I loosened the lug nuts AND  the Hub Nut.

Note: If this is your first time loosening the axle nut, see the original wheel bearing removal I posted.
Since mines been off before It wasn't so hard to remove this time.

Get the wheel removed and the car jacked up.

You may want to use a back up support should the jack fail.

I chose to tackle the usual stubborn bolts first. Here, before using my electric impact I just tried a a hand driver with the right size phillips head.  Because I used anti seize last time I did the brakes they came right out. :)

Next I loosen the tie rod end nut.  3/4 socket size I believe. I use a heavy duty 1/2 drive ratchet.

Here is the Tie Rod / Ball joint remover I bought for 24.99 It worked great.

Here's the tool mounted up and ready to pop the joint free.

It's a mighty POP indeed so be ready for it.


After the tie rod was free, I removed the brake caliper. Just the 2 large bolts and tire iron/ prybar to work it free.  I undid the brake hose grommet and hung the assy. up on the strut coils.

I used a small piece of bailing wire to keep it from falling.

Once the brakes were off I tried to get the ball joint tool on the lower ball joint but couldn't, untill I undid the upper the strut bolts. (17mm or 11/16)
And also slid the out of the spindle and up out of the way.. as shown below..

 Once in place.. a little muscle a few ratchet turns and the mighty POP as it goes free of the spindle.

If your spindle comes with the lower ball joint Then this step is a little easier.  Just remove the lower 2 bolts on the lower control arm.

So here's everything just before the spindle was free to remove.

For installation of the new spindle, I prepped the axle splines with some anti seize. I slid the spindle onto the axle. Due to some rust on the new spindles splines it was a little tight but It eventually got seated with a little muscle and tightening the axle nut to draw it into place.

Install the spindle to the strut using one or both of the upper strut bolts at this time. No need to tighten the nuts yet.

 Now place the spindle on the LBJ you just popped free. Of course making sure first, all surfaces were clean and nice.

The nut will try to make to ball joint spin. What I had luck doing was placing another jack under the LBJ and lifting until the weight of the car kept from spinning. I slowly brought the nut down tight.

The rest was a process of reassembly and was about as easy as disassembling it all.

Below is a pic of the tool's I used to get it done.  Electric impact is nice but optional.